Spain is a land of culinary wonders, from rich Iberian ham to exquisite olive oils and famous wines. Yet, nestled in the rugged mountains of Asturias, there’s a product that stands out for both its bold flavor and its remarkable prestige—Cabrales cheese. Recently, Cabrales made international headlines when a single wheel sold for an astonishing €30,000, earning it the title of the world’s most expensive cheese. But what makes this blue cheese so special, and why does it command such a high price?
In this post, we’ll take you on a journey through the world of Cabrales, from its artisanal production methods to the unique qualities that make it one of the most sought-after cheeses in the world.
What Is Cabrales?
Cabrales (in Asturian: quesu Cabrales) is a blue cheese produced in a small region of Asturias, Spain, in the breathtaking mountains of the Picos de Europa. It’s known for its intense, complex flavor, which can be both sharp and creamy, with a spicy undertone. Cabrales is a true artisanal cheese, made using traditional methods passed down through generations of rural dairy farmers.
The cheese can be produced from cow’s milk, or blended with goat’s and sheep’s milk for a stronger flavor. The milk used in Cabrales production comes exclusively from local herds raised in the specific, limited area around the Cabrales region, ensuring that the cheese maintains its protected designation of origin (PDO) status. This PDO guarantees the authenticity and quality of Cabrales cheese, much like France’s Roquefort or Italy’s Gorgonzola.
The Art of Cabrales Production
What truly sets Cabrales apart from other blue cheeses is its traditional aging process, which takes place in the natural limestone caves scattered throughout the Picos de Europa. After the milk is curdled and the curds are formed into molds, the cheese is salted and left to cure. But the real magic happens when it’s transferred to these natural caves, where it spends anywhere from two to five months maturing.
The caves’ cool temperatures (around 7–13°C or 45–55°F) and high humidity levels (approximately 90%) create the ideal environment for the growth of penicillium molds, which are responsible for the cheese’s distinctive blue-green veins. These conditions also contribute to Cabrales’ creamy texture and intense flavor. Depending on whether cow, sheep, or goat milk is used, the taste of Cabrales can range from mildly piquant to sharply spicy, making it a truly versatile cheese.
The 2023 Cabrales Auction: A New World Record
In August 2023, the small Asturian town of Arenas de Cabrales once again captured global attention during the Certamen del Queso Cabrales, an annual festival that celebrates this local delicacy. It was here that a single wheel of Cabrales, produced by the Quesería Los Puertos, shattered all records at auction, selling for a staggering €30,000. The winning bid was placed by the owners of El Llagar de Colloto, a restaurant in nearby Oviedo, marking the fourth consecutive year that they’ve won the prized cheese at auction.
This isn’t the first time Cabrales has set a world record. In 2018, another cheese from Cabrales made history when it sold for €14,300, and in 2019, that record was broken again with a sale of €20,500. The recent sale is not just a testament to the quality and prestige of Cabrales cheese but also a reflection of the deep cultural significance it holds in Asturias.
What Makes Cabrales So Expensive?
While Cabrales cheese has long been appreciated for its flavor, the recent record-breaking prices reflect more than just its taste. Several factors contribute to its high value:
- Limited Production: Cabrales is made by only 15 dairy producers, all of whom adhere to the strict PDO regulations that protect its authenticity. Annual production is limited, with only around 433,000 kg produced in 2019, making it a rare delicacy.
- Labor-Intensive Process: The aging process in the caves of the Picos de Europa is laborious and requires the cheeses to be regularly inspected, turned, and cleaned. The effort involved in both producing and transporting Cabrales (by foot through rugged mountain terrain) adds to its exclusivity.
- Cultural and Historical Significance: Cabrales is more than just a cheese; it’s a symbol of Asturian heritage. The annual Cabrales Cheese Contest has been held for over 50 years and is a celebration of the region’s cheese-making tradition. The contest not only showcases the best cheese but also raises money for local charities, with a portion of the auction proceeds going to causes like the Asociación Galbán, which fights cancer.
- Unique Flavor: Cabrales’ flavor is unmatched. The combination of raw milk, traditional methods, and unique aging conditions creates a cheese that is bold, intense, and truly one-of-a-kind. The cheese also develops subtle variations depending on the types of milk used, with goat and sheep milk giving it a stronger, spicier kick.
How to Enjoy Cabrales
Given its strong and complex flavor, Cabrales is best enjoyed in small portions, often paired with other local delicacies. Here are a few ways to enjoy this extraordinary cheese:
- On its Own: Cabrales can be eaten on its own, preferably with a crusty bread or crackers, to let its intense flavors shine.
- Paired with Wine: The bold, tangy flavor of Cabrales pairs beautifully with robust red wines or sweet dessert wines like Pedro Ximénez. Its sharpness also complements cider, another Asturian specialty.
- In Traditional Dishes: Locals in Asturias often incorporate Cabrales into sauces for meats, like grilled steaks or pork, or melt it over potatoes for a creamy, flavorful dish.
- With Fruits and Honey: For a lighter pairing, try Cabrales with sweet fruits like figs, pears, or apples, or drizzle it with honey for a perfect balance of sweet and savory.
A Taste of Asturian Heritage
Cabrales is more than just one of the world’s most expensive cheeses; it’s a symbol of the rich culinary traditions and natural beauty of Asturias. The cheese’s rugged origins in the caves of the Picos de Europa, combined with the passion of local dairy farmers, make every wheel of Cabrales a true artisan masterpiece.
For food lovers seeking a truly unique gastronomic experience, Cabrales offers not only an explosion of flavors but also a connection to one of Spain’s oldest and most revered cheese-making traditions. Whether you enjoy it on its own, paired with wine, or as part of a dish, Cabrales is a cheese that will leave a lasting impression on anyone who tastes it.
Conclusion: Cabrales—A World-Class Cheese with a World-Class Price
The world of fine cheeses is vast, but few can claim the prestige or exclusivity of Cabrales. Its combination of rarity, traditional craftsmanship, and bold flavor makes it a standout in the world of gourmet food. While most of us may never spend €30,000 on a single wheel of cheese, the opportunity to taste Cabrales, whether in Asturias or abroad, is a chance to experience a product that is deeply rooted in history, culture, and flavor.
So next time you find yourself in Spain, take a trip to Asturias, explore the Picos de Europa, and try a bite of Cabrales—the cheese that’s making history.